How To Apply Marmolaz Products

Lime Plaster

Marmorino can be applied in a matte sheen with minor movement and variation, or can be burnished to high polish.

Base coat: Before applying Marmolaz product, please ensure a bonding agent is applied first. Using a trowel, apply thick strokes on to the surface. Base coat can be applied smooth or textured depending on desired look. Allow the base coat to completely dry before beginning on the second coat. For a smoother finish, the plaster can be flattened with a trowel while the plaster is still soft and not fully dried.

Second coat: Apply multiple thin or slightly textured passes. Apply each pass over the previous only when it has slightly set and is no longer tacky or wet. When the plaster dries to a clay like dryness, after a few minutes, the plaster can then be burnished, thus polishing the wall.

Final coat: If the second coat is smooth, multiple paper thin layers can be applied and highly burnished. (or left smooth and unpolished). Conversely, a third coat can achieve more texture if the 1st and 2nd coats are layered in a textured way.

Top coats: If desired, plaster can be finished with a sealer, wax or numerous decorative finishes depending on the desired look and required durability.

Lime Paint (Masonry Application)

Lime paint can be applied in a matte, unpolished sheen with minor movement and variation.

First Coat: Lime Paint can be brushed or sprayed. Apply the Lime Paint to completely cover previous substrate. Lime Paint is a little thicker than conventional paint allowing a more bodies or textured coverage if desired. Any texture on the first coat can translate into color variation on the second coat, especially if burnished. As the first coat dries, if desired, it can be troweled out creating minor texture. Allow first coat at least 24 hours to dry.

Final Coat: Before applying the final coat, make sure there are no drips or uneven texture. Undesired drips or textured can be sanded or scraped off. The final coat can be brushed or sprayed - it will quickly be absorbed in the first coat. As this happens, and the lime paint is no longer ‘wet’, it can be softly burnished with a trowel, sponge, dry brush or cotton cloth. Careful, the tool used to burnish will create different textures. If not, it can be left alone to dry completely matte.

Limewash

Limewash is thinner than lime paint - as a result, you can apply a number of coats depending on your style preference. Limewash is popularly used on brick.

Add Water: Depending on how transparent you want it to be, you may add different levels of water. Stir the paint and water mixture for a couple of minutes with a paddle drill until it is mixed fully and there is no standing water. (1 part paint to 1 part water)

Clean the Brick: Before you apply the limewash, we recommend the brick be cleaned. Cover windows and doors or other areas you do not want painted with drop cloths or plastic.

Apply On Wall: Apply with 6 in. brush from corner to corner of a wall. If it is hot and in direct sunlight, you will need to keep the wall damp with water prior to applying the paint. Work one wall at a time to keep damp as necessary. Rollers are not recommended.

Stylize: Only one coat is needed for antique limewash effect. The drying process is dependent on outdoor conditions. Direct sunlight will make our limewash dry faster and vise versa. When the limewash begins changing color that indicates the drying process has begun. With a garden house, you can manipulate the limewash look as its drying.

Manipulation Process: If the limewash has reached an undesired look once it’s dried, you can use a pressure washer to manipulate it to a more desired look.